Copyright 2008 The New York Sun Fri, 04 Jul 2008 14:52:38 -0400 http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss Food and Drink :: Stories from The New York Sun http://www.nysun.com/food-drink istoll@nysun.com (Ira Stoll) webmaster@nysun.com en-us ADAM GOLDMAN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/chestnut-wins-hot-dog-contest-after-eat-off/81256/ Fri, 4 Jul 2008 14:41:21 EST Joey Chestnut reclaimed the top spot at the annual hot dog eating contest in Coney Island on Friday after first tying with archrival Takeru Kobayashi in a 10-minute chow-down and then beating him in a five-dog eat-off. The men tied at 59 frankfurters in 10 minutes, before being made to gobble another five dogs in a last-minute tiebreaker. They consumed 64 hot dogs total and were looking quite peaked after the competition. Mr. Kobayashi had hoped to reclaim the throne after a disappointing... PETER HELLMAN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/new-gourmet-hot-dogs-make-their-way-to-the-market/81103/ Wed, 2 Jul 2008 00:00:00 EST From her childhood in Gascony to motherhood in New York, food maven Ariane Daguin long kept her distance from hot dogs and all the unknowable things within them. "I just told people that it's better not to eat them," she said in a telephone interview. No longer. Just in time for the grilling season, D'Artagnan, the Newark-based purveyor of traditional French-style luxury foods owned by Ms. Daguin, has introduced a new line of hot dogs with aspirations to artisanal status. Along with versions... NANCY DAVIDSON http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/grilled-cheese-beyond-the-sandwich/81104/ Wed, 2 Jul 2008 00:00:00 EST There's no reason that vegetarians have to be left out of the fun when it comes to outdoor cooking: Dairy-eating vegetarians (and all cheese lovers, of course) can cook paneer and halloumi cheeses directly on the grill — a new, breadless interpretation of grilled cheese. What these cheeses have in common is a firmness and density that gives them the flavor and texture of melted cheese, but without any stringy mess. They keep their shape when heated, and gain chewy buoyancy. Halloumi is a cheese... PAUL ADAMS http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/elizabeth-serves-up-comfort-food-in-crowded/81105/ Wed, 2 Jul 2008 00:00:00 EST Last month, Colin Alevras's ambitious Tasting Room restaurant closed its doors. Its dedication to painstakingly sourced, exquisite ingredients resulted in delicacies such as $40 entrées of exotic mushrooms that, culinarily exciting though they were, tested the adventurousness of customers who ultimately found the restaurant wanting. At about the same time, Elizabeth opened across the street. The two eateries could hardly be more different. Where the Tasting Room was uncompromising and required... BRET THORN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/kitchen-dish-china-1-countrys-steakhouse/81102/ Wed, 2 Jul 2008 00:00:00 EST VERITABLE MOVE A protégé of Joël Robuchon, Grégory Pugin, is the new chef at Veritas (43 E. 20th St., between Broadway and Park Avenue South, 212-353-3700). In other Véritas news, starting Monday, the restaurant will be open from 3-5:30 p.m., Monday through Friday, as well as during normal mealtime hours, serving light dishes and wine. NEW ANTIQUES Malik Fall is the new executive chef of the recently renamed China 1 Antique Restaurant and Lounge (950 Ave. B at 4th Street, 212-375-0665). The... BRET THORN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/kitchen-dish-a-new-chef-at-a-voce-and-movement/80594/ Wed, 25 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST MOVE ON UP Luke Ostrom, chef de cuisine of A Voce (41 Madison Ave. at 26th Street, 212-545-8555), is currently running the kitchen there, as executive chef Andrew Carmellini left about three weeks ago. STEAK-ING CLAIM Speaking of A Voce, the man who was its first general manager, Michael Glick, opened his own steak house on the Upper East Side yesterday. At Parlor (1600 Third Ave. at 90th Street, 212-423-5888), chef Lucas Billheimer, formerly of Lure, is serving burgers and lobster rolls, as... ERIN LINDHOLM http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/the-great-burger-debate-cooked-to-order-vs-one/80595/ Wed, 25 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST It's the ultimate debate: Any conversation about burgers uncovers the preferences of the eaters, whether they are purists or gourmands, and if they prefer griddles or grills, thick-in-the-middle patties, or ones that are evenly formed. (Such talks are inevitably seasoned with plenty of ooohs and ahhhs.) Favoritism aside, one important question to ask is how the city's great cooked-to-order burgers stand up to those at eateries where a diner's craving cannot be sated by a chosen doneness... PAUL ADAMS http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/struggling-to-raise-the-bar-at-bar-milano/80596/ Wed, 25 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST It's only natural to expect excellency from the team that created Lupa and 'inoteca: Restaurateurs Jason and Joe Denton and chefs Eric Kleinman and Steve Connaughton bring a sure-handed balance to those successful downtown restaurants. So when the group's new restaurant frustrates those high hopes, the disappointment is deeper than it would be otherwise. Bar Milano is of the new breed of Italian restaurants, places that have a familiarity with a global culinary vernacular, and a light touch in... JAYANTHI DANIEL http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/applewares-serves-treats-from-applewood/80597/ Wed, 25 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST Applewares, the Park Slope kitchen supply store opened by the team behind the nearby Applewood restaurant, is now selling a sampling of the food items served at the eatery. Owners David and Laura Shea are offering such dainties as espresso chocolate chip cookies ($4.50), vanilla shortbread cookies ($4), and candied macadamia nuts ($8); small jars of pickled ramps ($12) and garlic confit ($5) are also on the shelves. Eventually, the duo intends to offer more savory items, including duck... PETER HELLMAN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/products-for-the-perfectpicnic/80174/ Wed, 18 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST As a child, my formative picnic experience took place on a grassy meadow overlooking the Seine in the French countryside, where my vacationing family had just spread out lunch. Suddenly, a grizzled man appeared. "You're on private property," he growled. "Leave here at once." But then, surveying our beckoning feast, his face softened. "Well, first enjoy your lunch — and then leave immediately," he said. Trust a Frenchman to prioritize the importance of a picnic. Of course, prepping for the... PAUL ADAMS http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/heres-not-looking-at-you-kid/80175/ Wed, 18 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST My native-grown friend put it well: If this place had opened 20 years ago, its food would have been an afterthought at best. Cabrito is a Caliente Cab Co. for the dining-conscious New York of this millennium, a Tortilla Flats for 2008. It's done up in Mexican kitsch, with Day of the Dead skeletons, beautifully colored tiles, and margaritas flowing by the $60 pitcher. It's a boutique version of a pastiche roadhouse, where gourmet details on the menu justify the prices — or try to: The margaritas... CHARLOTTE COWLES http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/the-lowdown-on-wine-delivery-to-the-hamptons/80185/ Wed, 18 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST Like many New Yorkers, the city's top wine stores have devised a method for dealing with the dog days of summer: Pack up and ship out to someplace cool, breezy, and quiet. Many wine proprietors offer summer shipping discounts to Fire Island and the Hamptons, targeting their beach-loving customers. Most of the city's largest wine stores boast Web sites that allow customers to browse and order from the comfort of their air-conditioned offices. For proprietors to waive shipping fees, a minimum... BRET THORN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/kitchen-dish-grayz-oceana-and-more-broadway-east/80186/ Wed, 18 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST FORGET THE LOUNGE Gray Kunz's lounge and event space, Grayz (13-15 W. 54th St., between Fifth and Sixth avenues, 212-262-4600), will soon reopen as a full-fledged restaurant, closing on August 10, and reopening with a new format and a renovated downstairs dining area on September 1. EASTERN SAGA Publicists for Broadway East (171 E. Broadway, between Rutgers and Jefferson streets, 212-228-3100) have denied that the restaurant's executive chef, Lee Gross, has departed his post, as reported last... JAYANTHI DANIEL http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/cheesesteak-samosas-and-shorts-at-nyc-food-film/79945/ Fri, 13 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST The second annual NYC Food Film Festival, which kicks off Saturday, combines two summer favorites — a rather genius pairing — for a week of fun on the water. The festival, held at Long Island City's Water Taxi Beach, was co-founded last year by George Motz, the director of "Hamburger America" (2004), a documentary about outstanding hamburger joints across the country, and Harry Hawk, the owner of Harry's, a hamburger-and-hot-dog stand at the beach. Each night, a group of films is screened, with... MARISA KABAS http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/ikea-cafe-brings-swedish-flavors-to-red-hook/79923/ Fri, 13 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST Brooklynites have more to look forward to than just sleek home furnishings with the opening of the new Ikea in Red Hook: The Scandinavian decorating destination will also include a café, bringing Ikea's interpretation of Swedish cuisine to the neighborhood. The company has seen its cafés flourish worldwide, from Hong Kong to Long Island, and now city residents, too, will be able to enjoy Swedish meatballs with lingonberry sauce, herbed salmon, and an array of indulgent desserts. "Lingonberry... PAUL ADAMS http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/confederated-cuisines-of-the-21st-century/79705/ Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST America's red-sauce interpretation of Italian cuisine seems so natural by now that it's hard to think of it as a synthetic cuisine at all, even when it's contrasted with the true indigenous dishes of Italy. So it's startling to encounter a different thriving hybrid: Japanese-Italian cuisine. For a long time, Italy has been exerting a culinary influence in Japan as surely as it has here: The two cultures, bound together by noodles and other commonalities, mesh neatly on the plate. A couple of... BRET THORN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/kitchen-dish/79706/ Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST PLANET THAI King Phojanakong, of the Lower East Side's Kuma Inn (113 Ludlow St., between Delancey and Rivington streets, 212-353-8866), has announced plans to open a second Kuma Inn, on Myrtle Avenue next to Fort Greene Park in Brooklyn, this fall. In the meantime, Mr. Phojanakong is concentrating on his latest eatery, Talay (701 W. 135th St. at Twelfth Avenue, 212-491-8300), which is serving Latin-influenced Southeast Asian food prepared by him and co-chef Soulayphet Schwader. The two chefs... JULIE WIENER http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/indulgent-incantations/79710/ Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST When I began reviewing cookbooks, my mother, an ardent home cook, shared her personal approach to judging culinary literature. A twist on "don't judge a book by its cover," it is this: If the photos are glossy and beautifully staged, the recipes are worthless. Like any self-respecting daughter, I try to ignore maternal pronouncements as much as possible. But as I pored through "Mantra: The Rules of Indulgence" (Ecco, 214 pages, $34.95) by Jehangir Mehta, I couldn't help but wonder if Mom had a... Associated Press http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/alineas-achatz-named-top-chef/79607/ Tue, 10 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST A Chicago chef known for his ethereal cooking — as well as the tongue cancer that nearly ended his life — was named the nation's top chef Sunday by the James Beard Foundation. The award marked another victory in a tumultuous year for Grant Achatz, who last July was diagnosed with stage four tongue cancer, underwent aggressive treatment to save his life and sense of taste, and by December was cancer-free. Mr. Achatz's cooking at his three-year-old restaurant, Alinea, has come to define the... JAYANTHI DANIEL http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/a-block-party-unites-the-nations-barbecue-styles/79426/ Fri, 6 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST The Big Apple Barbecue Block Party is the kind of event that sends certain New Yorkers into a twitchy state: Those who have been to the event launch into an impassioned speech about their favorite vendors and cuts of meat. Those who haven't take on a look of longing and hopefulness at the mention of this annual festival. Last year, 120,000 people crowded Madison Square Park and the surrounding streets to taste South Carolina whole roasted pig, Texas smoked beef brisket, Alabama pulled pork, and... HOPE HODGE http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/batali-show-involved-in-lawsuit-by-daily-show/79236/ Wed, 4 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST A former staff writer for Comedy Central's "The Daily Show with Jon Stewart" and "The Colbert Report," Ben Karlin, is suing the company of food television producer Charles Pinsky, founder of Frappe Inc., for reneging on a contract for a book that was to have accompanied the upcoming PBS series, "Spain ... on the Road Again." The show stars chef Mario Batali and actress Gwyneth Paltrow. Mr. Pinsky asked Mr. Karlin in summer 2007 to conceptualize and oversee the book, according to a lawsuit filed... BRET THORN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/kitchen-dish/79211/ Wed, 4 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST FRIARS COME FULL CIRQUE The Friars Club (57 E. 55th St., between Park and Madison avenues, 212-751-7272), long known for the sort of "roasts" in which the guests of honor are lampooned, has new chefs. The members-only club that caters to people in the entertainment industry has hired Alain Allegretti and Jason Kallert as co-executive chefs. Mr. Allegretti was executive chef of Le Cirque 2000, and Mr. Kallert most recently was executive sous chef of Le Cirque. FIRE IN THE HOUSE Sheridan Square... ROBERT SIMONSON http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/a-local-push-for-iberian-juice/79212/ Wed, 4 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST 'The Italians do it," Ron Miller of Solera, the Spanish restaurant on East 53rd Street, said. "The French do it. Why not us?" Do what? Use their wine list as an expression of national pride and culinary purity, that's what. At Babbo, you'll be looking in vain for a wine not produced on the Italian boot. The list at Balthazar has a thick Gallic accent. Such oenophilic exclusivity is common in Manhattan eateries that focus on French or Italian cuisine. For some of the city's Spanish restaurants... PAUL ADAMS http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/where-old-becomes-nouveau/79213/ Wed, 4 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST French dining in New York often has a theme-park feel, perhaps intended to soften the seriousness of the cuisine's recherché sauces and preparations. The mid-century palace milieu of places such as La Caravelle and Le Côte Basque is out of vogue, but nowadays, we eat in loud halls of de-silvered mirrors such as Balthazar that strain to evoke a fantasy France. At first glance, Brasserie Cognac looks like another of these, its windows painted with words in red and gold, the requisite sconces... PETER HELLMAN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/a-private-19th-century-experience/79214/ Wed, 4 Jun 2008 00:00:00 EST Looking for a new — yet straight out of the 19th century — venue for an intimate private dinner in Midtown? Chef Alain Ducasse, whose appetite for antiques is as avid as his appetite for what's on the plate, has just the spot. Hidden away above Benoit, his homage to the classic Parisian bistro on West 55th Street, is the Officine, a nearly square room entirely corseted in handsomely carved walnut paneling. The room is a reconstruction of a French herbalist's shop, c. 1830. It was transplanted... DAVID LOMBINO http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/hold-the-new-york-eulogies-artichoke-is-a-hit/78767/ Wed, 28 May 2008 00:00:00 EST Many New Yorkers mourn the passing of independent shops, music venues, retailers, and, especially, restaurants. When the legendary Second Avenue Deli relocated to a side street near Third Avenue and was replaced by a Chase bank, it incited a barrage of "New York is dying" eulogies. It is of no small significance, then, that the city's latest food sensation, Artichoke Basille's Pizza & Brewery, a family-run pizza restaurant, opened recently in a storefront at 328 E. 14th St. that formerly housed... ERIN LINDHOLM http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/a-sex-driven-guide-to-city-eating/78707/ Wed, 28 May 2008 00:00:00 EST "Sex and the City" made stars not only out of its four leading actresses, but out of oft-featured New York City eateries and drinking spots as well. Some of the most memorable scenes in the series were filmed in local restaurants — and several others are expected to appear in "Sex and the City: The Movie." Conveniently, the places that the foursome visited are worthy of a visit in real life. From high-end to cheap-and-cheerful, these popular New York venues all have signature dishes that can... BRET THORN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/kitchen-dish-yerba-buena-juice-generation-and-san/78704/ Wed, 28 May 2008 00:00:00 EST NUEVA COMIDA Two alumni of Patria are opening a pan-Latin restaurant in the East Village: Chef Lenny Gonzales and restaurant director Giovanny Campos plan to debut Yerba Buena (23 Ave. A, between 1st and 2nd streets, 212-529-2919) next Monday. Ceviche, empanadas, stuffed plantains, paella, and roast suckling pig are all on the menu. REVOLVING DOORS Sam Hazen has left Tao (42 E. 58th St., between Park and Madison avenues, 212-888-2288) after being its executive chef for several years. Replacing... PAUL ADAMS http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/bar-qs-asian-barbecue-inspired-fare/78705/ Wed, 28 May 2008 00:00:00 EST Annisa always had the air of a well-guarded secret, the coolly excellent little den coyly tucked away on a West Village side street, hidden from the throngs and duly appreciated by those in the know. With Bar Q, chef Anita Lo seems to have set aside that aesthetic of quiet elegance. Palely gleaming onto bustling Bleecker Street from two storefronts, the new restaurant has none of Annisa's coziness. It's about as cozy as Penn Station, and manages to feel both austere and cramped. Its tall... JAYANTHI DANIEL http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/out-to-the-ball-game/77348/ Fri, 23 May 2008 00:00:00 EST The Memorial Day holiday presents city dwellers with an opportunity to take in the great American pastime. With the Mets on the road this weekend, Summer in the City heads to the Bronx to cheer on the Yankees, who face off against Seattle's Mariners. But it's not just the Amazins and the Pinstripes to which New Yorkers pledge allegiance: The city boasts minor league teams, the Brooklyn Cyclones and the Staten Island Yankees, both of whom will play home games beginning in June. This should give... PETER HELLMAN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/pink-sips/76763/ Wed, 21 May 2008 00:00:00 EST Like linen suits and Panama hats, rosé wines come into season over the Memorial Day weekend. Their straightforward duties have always been to be prettily tinted, well-chilled, and zingy. That said, increasing interest in rosés has begotten what Stephen Bitterolf, wine director of Crush Wine Company (crushwineco.com), calls a "creative rosé class" — sippers that go beyond "delicate simple fruits and easygoing balance." Crush recently held its third annual "War of the Rosés" taste-off, and the... BRET THORN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/obika-abboccato-and-hundred-acres/76764/ Wed, 21 May 2008 00:00:00 EST STRING CHEESE INCIDENT Obika, the mozzarella bar that has created a furor in Rome, Milan, and London, has its sights on New York City. The corporate Web site says its next opening will be at 590 Madison Ave. (at 56th Street), and plywood — labeled with Obika's name and quotations from various press mentions — surrounds a space in the atrium of the office building at that address. TRADING TABLES Chef de cuisine Jake Addeo is leaving his post at Abboccato (136 W. 55th St., between Sixth and... PAUL ADAMS http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/flexitarians-delight/76765/ Wed, 21 May 2008 00:00:00 EST Broadway East might easily be taken for a vegetarian restaurant, with its plates of macrobiotic grains and dairy-free simulated cheeses. But close perusal of the menu turns up a roast chicken dish that's made with real chicken. The black cod is not ersatz either. The attractive, dully named new spot on the edge of Chinatown is built for flexitarians, that breed of mostly vegetarian eater that doesn't mind a helping of animal protein now and then. Under executive chef Lee Gross, the bulk of the... ROGER HIGHFIELD http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/james-bonds-martini-dissected/76766/ Wed, 21 May 2008 00:00:00 EST James Bond preferred his vodka martinis "shaken, not stirred," but is there any difference? Yes, according to a psychologist and a chemist who like their science with a twist. In celebration of the centenary of the birth of Ian Fleming, creator of the world's most famous secret agent, the psychologist Charles Spence and the chemist Andrea Sella will be unveiling the secrets of 007's favorite drink and a range of other cocktails, at a lecture at the Cheltenham Science Festival in England next... LISA AMAND http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/taste-of-summer/76761/ Wed, 21 May 2008 00:00:00 EST New York City in the summertime is a culinary wonderland. Popular restaurants, where reservations are usually impossible to come by, suddenly welcome new patrons into their sought-after sanctums. Sidewalk cafes, courtyards, and flower-filled gardens bloom for alfresco dining. Those city residents who have not fled for the East End or other summer communities can delight in hot dogs at Coney Island, fruit-flavored ices from carts set up on the outskirts of Central Park, or lemonade at any number... MATT KRAMER http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/refreshing-pours/76762/ Wed, 21 May 2008 00:00:00 EST It says something about wine — and not something flattering, either — that one of the most praiseworthy words is "serious." In order to get respect (or at least a high price), solemnity is required. You never hear about a Barolo compared to, say, a Toots Thielemans harmonica solo. Happily, though, this rule is tossed aside with the arrival of summer. Now, the watchword is "refreshing." Like Mr. Thielemans's mastery of the chromatic harmonica, a refreshing wine can also be — dare I say it?... PAUL ADAMS http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/charmer-of-tribeca/76410/ Wed, 14 May 2008 00:00:00 EST Duane Park Cafe was always an under-heralded charmer, even something of a well-kept secret, its prime TriBeCa location forcing it to hold ground against a phalanx of the city's top restaurants. Last year, it was bought out by its general manager and shut down for a re-envisioning. It reopened earlier this year, losing the "Cafe" part of the name and leaving the new owners to tackle the same issue the space has always faced. The dining room pulls off a somewhat awkward straddle between elegant... BRET THORN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/kitchen-dish-2008-05-14/76411/ Wed, 14 May 2008 00:00:00 EST NEW TOQUE AT THE STOVE Bradford Thompson will be the new executive chef of Lever House (390 Park Ave. at 53rd Street, 212-888-2700) starting June 2. He replaces Dan Silverman. Mr. Thompson won the James Beard Foundation award for best chef in the Southwest in 2006 as executive chef of Mary Elaine's at the Phoenician in Scottsdale, Ariz. CONVIVIAL VIBES Scarpetta (335 W. 14th St., between Eighth and Ninth avenues, 212-691-0555), Scott Conant's latest venture, opened yesterday. Mr. Conant, former... JULIE WIENER http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/baking-made-natural/76418/ Wed, 14 May 2008 00:00:00 EST While a sophomore at Oberlin College, I found myself briefly eating in a student co-operative where a vocal and intimidating faction of vegans had managed to ban white flour, refined sugar and, of course, meat. Since that semester of brick-like bread, undercooked lentils and mushy brown rice, I have harbored a healthy skepticism of "natural foods," particularly those wholesome baked goods devoid of sugar and white flour. So I was pleasantly surprised by Ania Catalano's "Baking With Agave... Staff Reporter of the Sun http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/coming-soon-san-francisco-tavern-on-the-green/76094/ Thu, 8 May 2008 00:00:00 EST The renowned Central Park restaurant, Tavern on the Green, is opening a second location in San Francisco's central business district in the summer of 2009. The new eatery will feature 30,000 square feet of interior space; it also will have a 13,000-square-foot terrace, overlooking the city's Yerba Buena Gardens, where patrons can dine al fresco. Tavern on the Green, which first opened in 1934, was shuttered in 1974 — only to be leased by Warner LeRoy and revived in its current incarnation about... HENRY SAMUEL http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/sour-grapes-hits-bordeaux/75960/ Wed, 7 May 2008 00:00:00 EST PARIS — The world's most influential wine critic, Robert Parker, has caused consternation in Bordeaux after giving its 2007 vintage low marks and telling buyers to stay away unless châteaux owners cut their prices. "There is unquestionably little need to buy these wines as futures, unless dramatic price reductions occur. I don't expect that to happen," Mr. Parker wrote in his annual vintage review, "2007 Bordeaux: Who Will Buy Them and at What Price?" The man called the "pope of the vineyards"... PAUL ADAMS http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/labor-of-love-in-the-west-village/76004/ Wed, 7 May 2008 00:00:00 EST To throw another Italian restaurant into the brimming pot of Italian restaurants that is New York is to risk its submerging in the mass. I Sodi, a new little one in the West Village, is the inevitably stylish creation of an Italian-raised fashion executive, Rita Sodi, but it doesn't always muster the substance to back up its style. The skinny space is laden with attractive features: paneling that looks like polished driftwood, luminous marble shelves, sliding wooden bathroom doors whose locks... BRET THORN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/kitchen-dish-2008-05-07/76005/ Wed, 7 May 2008 00:00:00 EST FRY GOES MEXICAN Cabrito (50 Carmine St. at Bedford Street, 212-929-5050), a Mexican restaurant, is scheduled to open later this week in the space that was, until recently, chef Josh DeChellis's BarFry. The menu will be a mix of traditional items and new interpretations by chef David Schuttenberg. Those will include a chorizo cemita, a type of sandwich from the state of Puebla dressed with chipotle salsa, refried beans, avocado, and an herb called papalo, which is often compared to cilantro... PETER HELLMAN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/food-blogger-takes-on-the-biggest-name-in-wine/76006/ Wed, 7 May 2008 00:00:00 EST In her quirky and endearing new memoir, "The Battle for Wine and Love: Or How I Saved the World from Parkerization" (Harcourt, $23), wine writer Alice Feiring sharpens up the debate over the palate and power of Robert Parker, the world's reigning wine critic. Nobody has done more than Mr. Parker, through his writings and ratings, to raise American wine consciousness. But Ms. Feiring, who writes a Web log at alicefeiring.com, argues (as did the 2005 documentary "Mondovino") that Mr. Parker's... ELI LAKE http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/generals-memoir-claims-torture-by-us/75929/ Tue, 6 May 2008 00:00:00 EST WASHINGTON — The commanding general in Iraq for the Abu Ghraib prison scandal says outright in his new memoir that the military tortured and killed detainees in Afghanistan, that the military had a plan to kill off Moqtada al-Sadr's deputies as early as March 2003 and that Defense Secretary Rumsfeld tried to usurp command for tactical operations from his generals. The retired Lt. General, Ricardo Sanchez in his new memoir, "Wiser in Battle: A Soldier's Story," ultimately blames the prisoner... MATT KRAMER http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/wines-to-be-treasured/75585/ Wed, 30 Apr 2008 00:00:00 EST The literature of wine is ripe with descriptions (and barely concealed avarice) about wine buying. Here's Thomas Jefferson in 1787, acquisitive and even geeky in his wine pursuit, writing to a friend: "I cannot deny myself the pleasure of asking you to participate of a parcel of wine ... It is of the vineyard of Obrion [Château Haut-Brion], one of the four established as the very best, and it is of the vintage of 1784, the only very fine one since the year 1779." Even in the early 20th century... BRET THORN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/kitchen-dish-2008-04-30/75586/ Wed, 30 Apr 2008 00:00:00 EST AFTER CAFÉ GRAY The owners of A Voce will be taking over the space at the Time Warner Center that will be vacated by Café Gray (10 Columbus Circle at 58th Street, 212-823-6338) at the end of June. The owners of the Italian restaurant A Voce (41 Madison Ave. at 26th Street, 212-545-8555) plan to open a second location of the Italian restaurant at the Time Warner Center early next year. A BIT OF BELGIUM Le Petit Belge is slated to open tomorrow in the space that once was Tavalon Tea Bar (22 E... PAUL ADAMS http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/terroir-is-on-its-game/75587/ Wed, 30 Apr 2008 00:00:00 EST In 2002, when the restaurant Craftbar was new and small, I used to go there again and again for chef Marco Canora's hot pressed sandwich of duck ham, Taleggio cheese, and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. Since those days, Mr. Canora has moved on to success with his own Italian restaurants, Hearth and Insieme; and Craftbar, part of the Craft empire, has evolved into a fancier destination and spawned a chain of 'wichcraft sandwich shops, none of which serve the duck ham. I was very happy to be... PETER HELLMAN http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/hunting-for-spring-morels/75589/ Wed, 30 Apr 2008 00:00:00 EST Wild mushroom hunters are usually a friendly and generous lot. But not when it comes to disclosing a prize hunting ground. As a member of the band of amateurs called New York Mycological Society, for example, I'd go to the gallows before giving up the location of the place where, each year on the first Saturday in May, we kick off the foraging season by hunting for the rare and delectable morel. At Dean & DeLuca in TriBeCa, fresh morels are currently priced at a stiff $70 a pound. Our secret... FRITZIE ANDRADE http://www.nysun.com/food-drink/matzo-brei-brunch-and-dinner/75157/ Wed, 23 Apr 2008 00:00:00 EST Passover is at its halfway point, and those observing the eight-day Jewish holiday by giving up leavened bread for its duration may be missing their bagels right about now. Food writer Rachel Rappaport, who writes the Web log "Coconut & Lime," has just the solution: Everything Matzo Brei. "Since we can't have our favorite breakfast of everything bagels with lox and cream cheese during Passover, we have the next best thing," she said, of her savory version of a traditional Passover egg dish...