Wine Events, Uncorked

The rest of the city kicks into high gear after Labor Day, but the wine crowd waits until October. That's when — along with the first tints of yellow and orange in the Central Park maples — a quickening of interest comes in what we'll drink when the first chill wind blows. Stern and sturdy reds, such as those from the northern Rhône and Napa valleys, which are ignored during the summer doldrums, now beckon, as do cerebral whites such as the best white Burgundies. Now, too, the city is suddenly full of wine-related events for the trade and consumer alike. The following three events, geared toward wine buffs, promise special pleasures this month.

GLOBAL GREATEST

Is it possible to traverse the entire world of excellent wine in a single evening, or even in two evenings? The opportunity to take that voyage comes October 25 and 26 during "Critics' Choice" Grand Tastings, which are taking place at the New York Wine Experience, a biannual celebration of wine, presented by Wine Spectator magazine and spread over two floors of the New York Marriott Marquis. More than 250 wineries from 18 countries will be pouring at least one wine that scored 90 or more points in ratings by Wine Spectator magazine.

Is there such a thing as a perfect wine? Decide for yourself at Valdicava's table, where this Italian winery's 100-point Brunello di Montalcino, Madonna del Piano, 2001, will be poured. (Another rater of wine, Steven Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, refused to give a grade to this wine, finding it "atypical.") On hand will be all five of Bordeaux's greatest châteaus: Haut-Brion, Lafite Rothschild, Latour, Margaux, and Mouton Rothschild.

New wave cult producers include a California pinot noir magician, Kosta-Brown, which is appearing for the first time. An extra dimension of this tasting comes with the requirement that either the winemaker or the owner of each property must pour the wines. Talking to the big guns offers an opportunity to learn more than the back label notes would tell you. It's unwise to attempt to sample all wines offered at the Grand Tastings, even over two evenings. "My advice is to study the tasting directory, and focus on 30 or 40 wines that are of particularly interest to you as a theme," the executive editor at Wine Spectator magazine, Thomas Matthews, suggests. "You might do the French or Italian classics, or new discoveries, or the world's greatest dessert wines."

"Critics' Choice" Grand Tastings at the New York Wine Experience, Thursday and Friday, October 25 and 26, 7:30–10 p.m., New York Marriott Marquis, 1535 Broadway at 45th Street, $250 per ticket each evening. For tickets, go to winespectator.com.

BURGUNDY'S BEST

The tab for the second Burghound in the City Weekend trio of two dinners (at Per Se and Le Cirque) and one lunch (at Cru) is an eye-popping $13,370. But it must be considered that many of the 90 white and red Burgundies to be poured — and commented on by wine critic Alan Meadows, aka Burghound — are well nigh priceless. Vintages range from 1997 back to 1937 and the winemakers make up a roll call of legendary masters of that elusive Burgundy magic: They include including Comte Lafon, Coche-Dury, Roumier, Leroy, Jayer, and the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Since only a single bottle of each wine will be uncorked over the weekend, each portion will be limited to 1 1/2 ounces for a maximum of 18 guests. If that sounds parsimonious, Mr. Kapon points out that "this isn't Octoberfest."

Burghound in the City Weekend, Friday–Sunday, October 12–14. For reservations, e-mail wineworkshop@aol.com or call 212-875-0222.

BURNISHED BAROLO AND BARARESCO

The autumnal flavors of northern Italian food and wine will reign at I Trulli's "Taste of Piemonte" dinners on October 29 and 30. The five-course menu includes white truffles shaved over "tajarin" (local dialect for taglierini, a flat pasta about an eighth of an inch wide.). That dish should find a sonorous echo in the two oldest of five wines to be served, a Borgogno Barolo 1989 and a Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Montefico 1982. The highly tannic and acidic nebbiolo-based wines of this region require long aging to reveal their gentler side, and this pair fills the bill. Late-released from the winery, the wines were purchased by the owner of I Trulli, Nicola Marzovilla, and stored in the restaurant's temperaturecontrolled cellar.

"Borgogno is a producer who's been around from even before the wine was officially called Barolo," says an Italian food and wine historian, Jeremy Parzen, who will comment on the wines.

Guests may purchase special six-packs of old Barolo and Barbaresco at a 15% discount.

Taste of Piemonte Dinner, Monday and Tuesday, October 29 and 30, I Trulli Enoteca e Restorante, 122 E. 27th St., between Park and Lexington avenues, 7:30 p.m., $195, tax and tip included. For reservations, call John McKee at 212-481-7372, or e-mail jmckee@itrulli.com.